Looking for an 'A' Game at Kafe Neo

It was high noon on a Saturday. The growls of my stomach were audible above the noise of Highway 99 traffic. Craving flavors of lemon, oregano and feta, I pulled into the parking lot of , ready for a showdown with a plate of spanikopita.

At lunchtime, Kafe Neo is a casual, family-friendly eatery where orders are placed and paid for at the cash register. By evening, the scene is somewhat more formal, as full table service is offered beginning at 4:30 p.m.

The restaurant was hopping on my visit, with throngs of patrons waiting patiently beneath a canopy of grapevine lights as the hostess apologized for being short-staffed. Kafe Neo’s lunch menu is a roster of typical gyro sandwiches, classic Greek plates, and Aegean appetizers known as mezedes.

However, a lineup of “Specialty Gyros” ($6.25-7.50) arguably reflects the “neo” of the eatery’s name. Unique sandwich creations, such as teriyaki chicken, kalamari, Sparta pork (charbroiled pork with tzatziki and caramelized onions) or the Neo chicken (charbroiled chicken, pesto, sundried tomato, avocado), tempt diners looking for a departure from typical Greek standards.

My companions and I selected several dishes starting with the Neo appetizer plate ($9.25), a combo platter featuring three spreads and various small bites. Points were automatically awarded for the generous supply of pita triangles provided.

Of the dips, the potato puree skordalia earned highest scores with its velvety texture and pleasant garlic balance. The woefully under-seasoned hummus was little more than garbanzo bean puree, and the creamy tzatziki begged for more cucumber as well as for some fresh dill or mint. I’m rarely one to ask for more garlic, but in this case, the tzatziki’s yogurt base needed the extra punch.

Joining the spread trio of the Neo appetizer plate were two delightful dolmathes, taut grape leaf skins providing a snap sassy enough to match the rice filling’s lemony tang. Rings of green bell pepper and tomato slices dusted with dried herbs were fresh but seemed careless in their presentation.

Plating woes continued as a monochromatic bowl of avgolemono soup ($2.50/4.50) was plunked down in front of me, a forlorn chunk of chicken bobbing in its midst. Among the entrées sampled by our party was the moussaka ($10.95), boasting ground beef and tender eggplant seasoned with a spice blend that was enticing but demanded salt. The moussaka’s fluffy béchamel layer was a pleasant, surprisingly light counterpoint in texture and flavor.

Though described by the menu as “uniquely seasoned,” the shaved meat of my gyro plate ($9.95) proved to be pretty much the standard representation of the dish. Sides of bland rice-orzo pilaf and a lettuce-heavy Greek salad dressed with a blob of tzatziki made for a full platter but were little more than filler.

By unanimous decision, the favorite plate of our table was the spanikopita ($4.95). The buttery phyllo shell encased a delicious duo of spinach and feta that lacked nothing in the arena of flavor. Baklava ($4.00) was a close runner-up, its shot of spicy sweetness a bright final bell for the meal.

Though the portions were generous, ultimately Kafe Neo left me wanting something more. Pervasive throughout my experience was a sense that attention to detail was lacking. The under-seasoning and unimaginative plating were problematic, but the knockout blow came when our server asked whether I was finished with my half-empty bowl of soup only to spin on his heel and vanish before I could reply.

In a contest of quality versus quantity, I’ll always give the match to the restaurant that presents thoughtful food that is carefully prepared and deliberately plated. Kafe Neo came up short in this battle, but did offer a few good hits along the way.