A Tale of Two Sandwiches

I would attempt to elaborate on the A Tale of Two Cities metaphor but the fact is, I’ve never read the novel. Around the country, my former English teachers and professors are groaning in unison. My sincere apologies to them all.

While clearly not appropriately accomplished regarding the writings of Charles Dickens, I at least know a thing or two about bánh mì, aka Vietnamese sandwiches. The classic bánh mì is a split baguette smeared with mayonnaise and filled with grilled meat (or tofu), shreds of pickled daikon radish, and carrot, cucumber, and cilantro. Fiery jalapenos top off the sandwich and can be left of by request.

To orchestrate a bánh mì battle for this week’s review I chose to pit Yeh Yeh’s Sandwiches of Lynnwood against the Edmonds outpost of , both spots situated along the Highway 99 corridor.

Yeh Yeh’s proved to be hidden from the main thoroughfare, tucked behind the hulking gray produce purveyor Star Market at 200th Street SW and Highway 99. After placing my order at the counter, I settled myself at one of the faux green marble tabletops in the roomy but slightly unkempt dining area with chairs askew and newspapers strewn across empty tables.

Yeh Yeh’s menu offers several kinds of Vietnamese sandwiches, including classic grilled pork priced at $3.85 and the more exotic salmon version ringing in at $5.85. For an additional $1.30, diners can take advantage of the “Meal Deal” which includes a can of soda and an egg roll. An extra buck buys a scrambled or over-easy egg added to the sandwich. Though the sandwich price tags are arguably a bit high by bánh mì standards, spring rolls and plump, pillowy Crab Rangoon are a bargain at $3.15. Egg rolls run 2 for $1.75.

Whereas Yeh Yeh’s offers sit-down dining in addition to take-out, Seattle Deli’s offerings are for carting out. No tables and no credit/debit cards accepted at this shop located in Buhan Plaza, just north of 228th Street SW on Highway 99. At 7:00 p.m. on a Tuesday, the deli was doing a brisk business and I joined a vaguely-defined line of patrons waiting to speak orders and take away bags. 

Here, the BBQ pork bánh mì was only $2.75, and the spring rolls $2.25. Unfortunately I wasn't able to sample said spring rolls as the woman in line in front of my snagged the last two servings. Instead, I picked up a Styrofoam tray of green papaya salad ($3.50). Perhaps to make up for the spring roll tragedy, the cheerful counter staff threw into my bag two extra egg rolls (2 for $1.00).

Once home, I set about the task of comparing and contrasting my double-bounty of Vietnamese favorites. The egg roll contest proved to be a wash, as both Yeh Yeh’s and Seattle Deli’s versions were crisp and flavorful. Though it was difficult to visually discern from the medley of filling ingredients, taste indicated that Yeh Yeh’s take on the egg roll included shrimp. Word to the wise: The shellfish-allergic individual should inquire further.

Not involving shrimp, much to my surprise, were Yeh Yeh’s spring rolls. Whereas I’ve become accustomed to the bright pink crustaceans in this signature dish, Yeh Yeh instead wraps a long strip of what appeared to be pink processed minced pork into the lettuce-heavy bundle. I’ll give processed meat a shot, but it usually doesn’t rate among my favorite tastes or textures (unless it’s a Seattle-style hot dog with cream cheese and grilled onions). This case would not be an exception.

The green papaya salad I picked up from Seattle Deli was a hearty mound of the shredded young fruit hiding a container of tangy, slightly spicy, slightly sweet dressing to be applied by the customer. Though the condiment had an undertone of fish sauce, the flavor was mild…perhaps a good introduction for newbies wary of the traditional Vietnamese ingredient. The scattering of chopped peanuts added an additional dimension of texture and flavor, and I wouldn’t have minded if the nut application had been a bit more generous.

Oddly enough, even though the shrimp topping the salad had been sliced in half, the cutting process had failed to devein several of the critters. I passed on the shellfish still sporting an inky line down their backs.

I should also make mention of the evening’s find that was arguably the most fascinating: A green apple "mineral water" soda made by the Elisha company of China. If Bath & Body Works were to make a soft drink, I’m pretty sure it would taste like Elisha’s green apple concoction. Though the perfume flavor left something to be desired, the packaging—a clear plastic vessel topped with an aluminum pull-tab top—was fantastic. If Crystal Pepsi had come up with a can like that, it might have survived past the early 1990s.

The main event of my sampling endeavor was of course the competition between the pork bánh mì made by Yeh Yeh’s and Seattle Deli. In a side-by-side comparison, Yeh Yeh’s sandwich was a bit shorter and thicker than the more elongated Seattle Deli creation. In both cases the baguette was fresh, though Seattle Deli’s vegetables were crisper than those offered by Yeh Yeh’s.

Distinguishing the sandwiches most significantly was the meat. Yeh Yeh’s grilled pork boasted a savory marinade, moist and pronounced in flavor. Seattle Deli’s BBQ pork was more mildly seasoned and just slightly dry.

Via the narrowest of margins, I chose Yeh Yeh’s pork bánh mì  as the victor in terms of taste and texture. Ultimately, both shops produce a very good sandwich that satisfies on the cheap.